Coming from a well known and famous wine making family in Rioja, Spain, Rafael set out on his own in 2004 and hasn’t looked back since. He is now producing some of the best old-world wine from a warm climate in Val do Bibei, a sub-region of Valdeorras in Galica.
Boarding Ribera Sacra, the Val do Bibei is a tourured landscape of granite, terraced slope, dotted with hard to reacha and hard to farm vineyard plots. Most of the DO (Denominacion de Origen) is situated at a lower level with limestone and schist soils, but Rafael has chosen to work only with vineyards at a higher elevation, with Godello planted on granite soils. The elevation is so high that every year he faces dangers from late spring snow and frost.
Locally the plots of land in which Rafaels vineyards are planted on are called ‘Sorte’, which in the local dialect refers to the practice of drawing lots to determine inheritance. He has 24.5 hectares which is divided between 32 sorte. Some vines he owns himself and some are on a long term lease. The oldest vineyards, of which some are close to 100 years old, are head pruned, whilst the younger vines are on gentle slopes and are trellised.
The farming is minimalist and all vineyard work is done by hand, including harvest. The sub-zone is blessed with free draining soils and warm, dry summers. The farming is organic with some of the vineyards being converted to biodynamic.
Every vintage Rafael produces 2 more ‘entry level’ cuvees: Louro and As Sortes. When the vintage is right, 3 different single vineyard cuvees are produced: Sorte Antiga, Sorte Souto and Sorte O Soro. Today I’m going to talk about As Sortes and Sorte O Soro.
As Sortes
Coming from vines that are 32-95 years old from a Sortes situated within a natural amphitheatre. Fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in 500L French oak barrel, of which 20% is new oak. For many years this wine was the benchmark wine of Valdeorras, until it was unseated by Rafale’s single vineyard wines. The wine is dry and crisp, fresh with notes of grapefruit, apple, and hints of floral bouquets.
Sorte O Soro
This wine is a culmination of Rafael’s pioneering efforts in the Val do Bibei. Originating from a single .47 hectare plot of 40 year old vines and farmed bio-dynamically. Sorte O Soro is considered to be the Les Clos or Clos St Hune of Valdeorras. Following a natural yeast fermentation, it is aged for 7 months in new 500L french oak barrels. With spicy cedar oak notes, a full fruit intensity and salinity there is a freshness and elegance to the wine that won’t fail to impress.
In wine, there is truth 