Dispelling myths, weaving the stories of some of Champagnes greatest growers and informing us on the reality of the great Champagne region are just some of the things you will find in this book by Robert Walters. I would have to say it is one of the most fascinating and entertaining wine books I have read in a long time. While not only educating me on many facets on the Champagne region (at the same time making me realise how little I actually know about the region and it’s wines), I learned a great deal about the growers, their families, their approach to being a winegrower and winemaker and interesting information about all of their different cuvees.
Something that I noticed is that all the growers seem to have many things in common. Most inherited vineyards from their families and didn’t have a lot of push back when they wanted to do things their way, an appreciation of the land and using the nature all around the vines to help grow the best grapes, letting the grapes reach full ripeness (something that is uncommon with many growers and large houses), using either organic or biodynamic principles or an absolute aversion to any chemicals or herbicides/pesticides, little to no sulphur use, minimal dosage (in the case of a few growers, zero sugar, even in tirage) and an outlook to the great winemakers of regions afar (such as Burgundy, Jura, Alsace) as to how best make a great wine first and a champagne second.
Growers profiled in the book are La Closerie (Jerome Prevost), Egly Ouriet (Francis Egly), Champagne Agrapart (Pascal Agrapart), Jacques Selosse (Anselme Selosse), Champagne Larmandier-Bernier (Sophie and Pierre Larmandier), Jacques Lassaigne (Emmanuel Lassigne), Domaine Voutte et Sorbee (Bertrand Gautherot), Roses de Jeanne (Cedric Bouchard).
Below are some of my favourite bit’s of information that I got from the book:
Jermome Prevost worked with Selosse, who allowed him to use his winery to make ‘Les Beguines’, from it’s first vintage in 1998 till 2003.
Francis Egly sells Pinot Noir grapes to Selosse, so that he can make Rose.
Francis Egly was influenced by Michael Bettane, a French wine writer, who encouraged him to seek more ripeness and to bottle terroirs separately.
Pascal Agrapart organises his pressing and tanks according to soil type.
Anselme Selosse studied wine making at Beaune Lychee Viticole. After his studies he went to Rioja in Spain, where he was strongly infulnced by reserva aging and the solera system. He broke with biodynamics as he felt that there was an element of ‘auto suggestion’, without understanding how or why it works.
Pierre Larmandier’s father died when he was 18. His Mother wanted him to continue his education, so she took over until he returned 5 years later in 1988 to take over the estate. He was influenced by his wife Sophie to give up using chemicals and they started working towards organic and biodynamic certifications.
Emmanuel Lassigne already had a successful career with an international manufacturing firm, but he quit his job and returned to the family estate in 1999 to help his parents when they were suffering financial difficulties.
Jacques Lassaigne is technically a ‘Negociant Manipulant’ as he buys some grapes from a few small growers in Montgueux, but with very strict conditions. They grapes must come from old vines (at least 45 years old), chalky soils, organic and with a south or south-eastern exposure. This add’s 30% to production.
Bertrand Gautherot originally worked in luxury goods, as a designer for Chanel, Girlan and Dior. He had always wanted to take over his families estate, but he knew it would be split between him and his siblings, so he was not sure if this would be a possibility.
Bertrand Gautherot was encouraged from Prevost and Selosse to start making his own wines. His first vintage was in 2001.
Cedric Bouchard only makes wines of one vineyard parcel, one grape variety and one vintage. There is no blending. He has some of the lowest yields in champagne (26 hectolitres per hectare), which helps his grapes reach full ripeness.
Reading this book has made me want to go out and spend all my hard-earned money on a bottle from one of these great growers and to never touch another grand marque champagne ever again. If you are looking for an educational, yet compelling wine book to read as the world starts to shut down, this is one I would highly recommend!
In wine, there is truth 